How We Made a 10CT Old Mine Cut Lab Diamond Ring for a Client — The Arvine Story
The Vai Ra Custom Journal · Statement Rings
How We Made a 10CT Old Mine Cut Lab Diamond Ring for a Client
The Arvine began as our own ring. A client saw it, fell in love, and asked for something that was entirely hers. This is what happened next.
Watch — The Arvine Custom Ring
The Arvine — 10.01CT Old Mine Cut, Seamless Bezel, 18KT Gold
You may have seen this ring before. It started as our own — a piece we designed, made, and wore ourselves. When a client saw it, she did not want it exactly as it was. She wanted something close to it, but shaped by her — her lifestyle, her aesthetic, her idea of what a 10 carat stone should look like when it sits on her hand every day.
This is the story of how the Arvine was customised for her. And it is also the story of why an Old Mine Cut, of all the cuts in the world, was the only stone that could have been right for this ring.
Arvine Gallery
Part One
The Stone — A 10CT Old Mine Cut Lab Diamond
The centrepiece of this ring is a 10 carat Old Mine Cut lab diamond — and if you look closely, you will notice immediately that it is not like other stones. The facets are chunkier. The table is smaller. The culet — the point at the very bottom — is open and visible when you look straight into the stone. These are not imperfections. They are the defining characteristics of a cut that was born before precision machinery existed.
The Old Mine Cut (OEC) was hand-crafted in an era when diamond cutting was done entirely by eye and by feel. Each stone was unique — slightly asymmetrical, deeply personal, shaped by the cutter's judgement rather than a machine's calculation. That handmade quality gives OEC stones a warmth and character that modern brilliant cuts, with all their optical engineering, cannot replicate.
"An Old Mine Cut carries centuries in its facets. The light it returns is not the sharp, white flash of a modern brilliant — it is warmer, more romantic. The kind of sparkle that looks extraordinary by candlelight."
In a stone of 10 carats, those characteristics become impossible to ignore. The open facets are broad. The play of light is dramatic. This is a stone that announces itself quietly — not by blinding you with sparkle, but by drawing you in and holding your attention.
Lab Diamond vs Natural — What Changes
The Arvine uses a lab-grown diamond — chemically, physically, and optically identical to a mined stone. The OEC facet pattern is cut into it with the same care and intention as any natural Old Mine Cut. What changes is the origin: grown in a controlled environment, certified by IGI, and significantly more accessible in terms of price at this carat weight.
At 10 carats, a natural Old Mine Cut stone would be exceptionally rare and priced accordingly. The lab-grown version gives our client the same stone, the same cut, the same presence — made to order.
Part Two
The Engineering — Supporting a Stone This Size
When you are working with a diamond of this scale, the design has to work harder than it looks. A 10 carat stone carries significant physical weight. It has a large diameter. And its height — the distance from the table at the top to the culet at the bottom — is considerable. Getting all of this to sit correctly on the hand, without the ring looking heavy or bulky, requires deliberate engineering decisions at every level.
The Band Width — 3mm
We specified a 3mm wide band for the Arvine. For context, most fine jewellery rings use a band between 1.5mm and 2.5mm — delicate, refined, intentionally understated. At 3mm, the Arvine's band is broader. This was not an aesthetic preference. It was a structural requirement.
A stone of 10 carats exerts significant downward force on the band beneath it. A narrow band would struggle to support that weight evenly, creating stress points that could compromise the ring over years of daily wear. The 3mm width distributes that load across a greater contact area, protecting both the band and the setting from premature wear or deformation.
The Setting Height
The Arvine sits in a low bezel setting — meaning the stone is held as close to the band as structurally possible, minimising the gap between the base of the stone and the finger. But even a low setting, at 10 carats, carries the stone at a height that is noticeably elevated compared to a smaller stone in the same style.
This is unavoidable and, we would argue, beautiful. The height is earned by the scale of the stone. It is not excess — it is proportion. And it gives the ring a commanding presence that a flatter stone simply would not achieve.
"Every millimetre of height was considered. The stone needed room — to breathe, to be seen, to move light correctly. The setting rises to meet it, not to show off, but because the stone demanded it."
Part Three
The Setting — A Seamless Bezel for Maximum Security
Our client's primary concern was security. A stone of this significance needed to be held in a way that gave her complete confidence — whether she was wearing it alone on a quiet day, or stacked alongside a wedding band at an occasion. She needed to know it was safe.
We chose a full bezel setting — a seamless rim of gold that wraps entirely around the circumference of the stone, holding it from every angle. This is the most secure setting in fine jewellery design. Unlike a prong setting, where small claws grip the stone at four or six individual points, a bezel cradles the entire girdle of the diamond continuously.
Why Bezel
A prong grips at points. A bezel holds everything. For a stone this significant, worn every day, there was only one right answer.
The bezel also has an aesthetic consequence that suits the Arvine's character perfectly. Where prong settings expose the stone from the sides — emphasising its elevation and letting light in laterally — a bezel wraps the stone in a continuous band of gold that grounds it. The stone appears to emerge from the band rather than sit above it. The result is sculptural, architectural, and intentional.
For stacking — which the client intended to do with her wedding band — the bezel is also the most compatible setting. There are no prongs to catch, no elevated claws that prevent bands from sitting flush alongside. The bezel sits clean and flat at the sides, allowing rings to nestle naturally next to it.
Bezel vs Prong — The Trade-Off
A bezel setting allows slightly less lateral light entry than a prong setting — the gold rim covers more of the stone's circumference. For most cuts, this is a meaningful trade-off. For an Old Mine Cut, which is not designed around maximum light return, it is negligible. The OEC's sparkle comes from its depth and its open facets, not from lateral light. The bezel and the OEC are, in this sense, made for each other.
Part Four
The Modifications — Making It Hers
This is what customisation at Vai Ra truly means. Our client did not simply buy a ring. She shaped one. Starting from the original Arvine design, she worked through every decision with us — and at every stage, nothing moved forward without her complete approval.
Stone Selection
10CT Old Mine Cut lab diamond — chosen for its vintage character and extraordinary presence at this scale. Certified by IGI. DEF colour, VVS clarity.
Band Width Adjustment
Increased to 3mm from our standard width to provide structural support proportional to the stone's weight and diameter. Engineered for longevity, not just aesthetics.
Setting Specification
Full bezel in 18KT gold — her choice for security above all else. Setting height calibrated to the exact measurements of her stone for a low profile that still gives the diamond full presence.
CAD Review & Approval
3D renders produced before any metal was cast. Proportions, height, band width, bezel depth — every technical detail reviewed and signed off before production began.
Casting & Finishing
Cast in 18KT gold by our karigars. Hand-finished. Stone set. Final quality inspection — checking alignment, polish, setting security, and brilliance — before delivery.
| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Design | Statement Ring — Bezel Solitaire |
| Stone | 10.01CT Old Mine Cut Lab Diamond (DEF VVS1) |
| Setting | Full Bezel — 18KT Gold |
| Band Width | 3mm |
| Gold Weight | 4.81gm (6.81gm Gross) |
| Certification | IGI Certificate + BIS Hallmark |
| Available In | Moissanite (DEF VVS1) / Lab Diamond (EF VVS) |
| Metal Options | 14KT Gold / 18KT Gold |
Part Five
Why We Share This
At Vai Ra, we document our custom work not to showcase what we can do — but to show you what the process actually looks like. Because customisation is not a premium service reserved for a certain kind of buyer. It is available to anyone who comes to us with a vision, however formed or unformed.
The client who commissioned this Arvine came in knowing only that she loved the original ring and wanted something different. She did not come with engineering specifications. She came with a feeling. Our job was to translate that feeling into decisions — band width, setting height, bezel profile — and then execute each one without compromise.
"She came with a feeling. We translated it into decisions. The ring is what happened when those two things met, with nothing in between left to chance."
Every custom piece at Vai Ra begins this way. With a conversation. With listening. And with the understanding that what someone wants in jewellery is almost never about the specifications — it is about how it will feel to wear it, and what it will mean to them when they do.
If you have seen a Vai Ra piece and imagined it differently — a different stone, a different setting, a different metal, a different scale entirely — that conversation is exactly where we begin.
Begin Your Custom Journey
Every custom Vai Ra piece starts with a consultation — in person at our Panjagutta, Hyderabad showroom, or online. We work through the stone, the design, the CAD, and the production together — and nothing moves forward without your complete approval at every stage.
Book at calendly.com/vai-ra or reach us on WhatsApp at +91 99899 63894.
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The Arvine — Made for You
Available in Moissanite and Lab Diamond, in 14KT and 18KT Gold. Fully customisable. SGL/IGI certified. Hallmarked gold.